Atsushi Tanaka is a tornado of creativity. A former student of Pierre Gagnaire, he crafts liberated, inspired, daring cuisine that’s bursting with new sensations…. In a Zen-like dining room with grey tones and an installation by Shinsuke Kawahara, our lunch menu waltzed out: an irresistibly tender leek, almost caramelized in browned butter; an incredible avocado and pea cake that was soft and vegetal; a fabulous, silky broth with a clam, celery and lemon thyme cream. incredible Arctic char fillet with juniper covered in parsley tuiles and a marine crumble, a formidable opposition of textures; a fillet of turbot with asparagus is a translucent pine broth; sublime roasted duck breast that was sliced in the dining room (by the chef) from the carcass itself, and served with cherries and black garlic; before a final number around sorrel and green apple. Stupefying, from A to T! And it was all paired with sublime natural wines selected by Simon Thibaut, (also served downstairs at the AT Bar à vins): Cuvée M, a Roussillon from Jolly Ferriol (€8 a glass), La Luna, a red from the Loire produced by Bruno Duchêne (€9), Fleur, a white from the Loire by Patrick Desplats (€42 a bottle) … Menus €55 (lunch, food and wine pairings +€30) and €95 (dinner, food and wine pairings +€55 or +€75). // R.M.