Do you dream about the Sichuan Province? Hop off at the Bonne-Nouvelle metro station! That’s where Agnès, a native of Chongqing, has opened up this Chinese neo-eatery (light wood, waxed concrete, vintage posters) where she puts her spin on the local street food. On the 890’s menu: breaded and steamed pork or pork ribs wrapped up in sticky rice (€5.80); noodles with tripe, beef or ground pork (€9.80 for 150 grams); delicately seasoned steamed cuttlefish, tofu or enoki mushroom skewers (€2)…. And don’t forget about the masterfully crafted bao buns filled with lacquered pork, red beans, taro or vegetables (€1.20 to €1.80), which go down even better with a cup of flowering tea (€8.80 for two), flavored soy milk (€3.20), or even a glass of Tsingtao beer (€3.80). And at the end of the meal? Cushy little desserts: an addictive coconut jelly (€8.80), or a surprising matcha or durian crepe millefeuille (€6.80). Set menus (appetizer + main course) from €9.80 to €13.80. // C.C.