Le Fooding Guide’s 2001 best restaurant
An astrance is a delicate mountain flower, which has now pollinized the Quais de Passy by the harvester of mountaintops, Pascal Barbot. Ecstatic vibrations emanate from his 23 square meter kitchen, at both lunch and dinner. Our lunch began with a flavorful crisp sugar roll filled with a ginger-shiso purée, to open up the palette. Followed by: marvelous Mozambique shrimp in a full-bodied satay sauce with peanuts; warm infra-saline yellow pollack, shishito chilies from the Yamashita farm, warm spring onions and a tart grape-tamarind-geranium sauce; majestic pigeon from the Nièvre, raspberry powder, nano-carrots and silken chilies do Brasil; a wonderfully foamy pre-dessert of potato mousse, thyme, lemon and an intense vanilla ice cream, given some kick by a yellow chili sorbet; a peach-raspberry-plum sorbet and ribbons of frozen fig; jasmine-infused eggnog; honey and chestnut madeleines; and a few seasonal fruits to end the meal. Don’t forget about the absolutely modern wine collection from the Colombian sommelier, Alejandro Chavarro. Paraded out into the dining room with a now old-fashioned elegance: a feather-ruffling Jura from Ganevat (€70 a bottle), a rich Morgon from Descombes (€40) or a Saumur-Champigny from Clos Rougeard for the bankers (€110). Lunch menus €70 (with food and wine pairings, €120) and €150 (€230), dinner menu €230 (€350). You’ll need a reservation. // A.A.