David Lanher, Le Fooding Guide’s 2015 Man of the Hour
A historic letterpress studio that was taken over in 2014 by the Alajmo brothers (VIP restaurateurs with establishments from Venice to Padua), who teamed up with David Lanher (Racines, Bon Saint-Pourçain) and enlisted Philippe Starck to turn the space into a real cabinet of curiosities: a window display of a bedazzled stuffed wolf and a fox with wings, Picasso cushions in the small dining room and voodoo paraphernalia in the large one…. On the menu that’s prepared by Denis Matiozzi: hand-cut veal tartare with a tuna and Pantelleria caper sauce (€28); veal cutlets alla milanese, with crisp, paper-thin slices of potatoes, a black garlic cream and a dill-seasoned salad (€40); roasted apricots with ginger ice cream (€14). To drink, the disheveled Mirko champions his French-Italian wine list: Langhe Nebbiolo (€8 a glass), Pinot Nero Le Due Terre (€80 a bottle). They also serve an excellent Jamaican coffee roasted by Frasi in Verona (€2.50). Antipasto €16-40, primi €22-28, secondi €30-45, dolci €12-14. Menus €38 (lunch, with coffee), €95 and €130. // D.C.