Another grand slam at Fulgurances, l’Adresse, which hosts a new chef-in-residence every few months. After the cosmic Middle-Eastern-inspired dishes from Tamir Nahmias (ex-Frenchie, Astrance), now it’s Sam Miller’s turn (ex-Noma, Fäviken, Champignon Sauvage) to show us what he’s got up his shirtsleeves for the next three months – from January 4th to March 4th, 2017. And he makes ours taste-bud-ometers vibrate with his sacrosanct tasting menu creations (€46, or €58 with an additional dish and a dessert), served on blonde wooden tables: addictive Jerusalem artichoke chips and purée sweetened by a little crème fraîche; a plate centered around carrots (in a salt crust, fermented…), with whole cranberries and Japanese dandelion, topped with a bergamot cream sauce that you wipe up with smoked bread from the Bo bakery (Paris, 12th arrondissement); a little gem of butter-roasted skate wing, fennel cooked in milk and nestled up against a delicate slice of bacon; browned sucrine lettuce plunged into a Comté syrup which you sip from a cup; and for a really gourmet finale, a blueberry granita topped with lemon thyme and a milk ice cream (even more sublime with an elderberry flower liqueur from Laurent Cazottes: + €10); just before the final stroke of genius, a marriage of pumpkin purée, a malt cookie, caramel ice cream and apples frozen in cider, a truly deadly combination! And to drink, they’ve got plenty of powerful ammunition: a 2015 Patchwork from Tissot for €7 a glass, and a 2015 A toi nous from Andréa Calek, the rock star of natural Ardèche wines, for €28 a bottle, for example. Lunch menu: €19 or €24. Saturday lunch: €32. Dinner menu: €46 or €58. // G.L.-P.