After making the Mary Celeste vibrate with his mustard seed or green tomato liqueur cocktails, Michael Mas now shakes his shakers along the Canal Saint-Martin, in a former dive that’s been turned into a lunar space – raw concrete, strips of plywood and dim lighting…. Inside, he stitches together a dozen drinks made with often under-appreciated apéritifs and bitters (Xérès sherry, Gentian, Fernet-Branca…), like the Danois Imberbe (aquavit, Xérès, crème de poire and vanilla syrup), the Cream Paie (Madera, crème de cacao and bitter almond crème fraîche) and a few updated classics (a spritz with Xérès and horseradish-infused orange juice). So many vibrant creations that the Quebecois chef, Frédéric Boucher, pairs with crazy tapas: aligot fritters with ranch dressing; duck breast tartare with bread chips; delicious caramelized salmon bonbons with carrot pancakes; or beautiful poached pears with fresh goat cheese. There’s a respectable natural wine list too: El Pop, a white from Vinoceros (€37 a bottle), Far Ouest, a red from Mylène Bru (€36) and glasses from €5 to 6. Cocktails €12. Tapas €4-15. // R.deC.