Le Fooding Guide’s Best finger-lickin’ joint 2014, ex aequo
What is a “grillé”? A soft, organic wheat-spelt flour galette, unleavened, kneaded and baked on site, filled with spinning meats (suckling veal, lamb or pig delivered from Desnoyer, with mint, parsley and cilantro) tossed under the broiler with lemon. Moisten it with a white sauce (cream cheese and horseradish) or a green sauce (tomato, green chili, onion), and ask for homemade fries – even if that day, they could have been dipped in their oil bath for a little longer. All of which produces, by a long shot, the best döner kebap in Paris. In the line that starts at the street corner, there’s plenty of time to choose your drink — a Patrick Font fruit juice (cassis de Bourgogne, Sicilian mandarine, €4.50) or a nice Belgian Taras Boulba beer (€5.50). Grillé €8.80, fries €3. // G.D.