Le Fooding Guide’s Best finger-lickin’ joint 2014
In this haute-couture kebab shop (white ceramic tiles decorated with three azulejo-style reproductions of grotesque costume illustrations by Nicolas de Larmessin), the beast, a suckling veal from Hugo Desnoyer, is cooked in house, sliced with a razor by Yassin, and rolled up in soft, organic, wheat-spelt flour galettes with mint, cilantro, parsley and the sauce of your choice: white (artisanal fromage blanc, horseradish) or green (green tomato pulp, green chilies, sweet Sicilian onions). The homemade fries are a little mushy, but we don’t care, the kebab is that delicious! To drink, there’s Gallia beer (€3.90) and Patrick Font fruit juices (mandarin orange, Spanish “blonde” oranges, pink grapefruit or Burgundy black currant, €3.90). Kebabs €8.90, fries €3. // D.C.