Best ex aequo finger-lickin’ joint Guide 2014
Fred Peneau (already involved with the Chateaubriand and Dauphin adventures) has just marked another milestone in the history of fast food. Like Kristin Frederick before him with her Camion qui fume. After a bumpy start, Grillé is sending out their döner kebap, secular Anatolian wraps that get the gastronomic treatment here. The bread? An organic wheat-spelt mix, unleavened, baked on site, thin like a dürüm galette, rolled over onto itself after being filled. The meat? Selected by the star butcher, Hugo Desnoyer: suckling veal, lamb or pork, according to the day, shaved and seasoned with lemon and sake. The sauces? Your choice: white (fromage blanc infused with horseradish), green (green tomatoes, green chilies), or red (tomatoes, sweet chili). The toppings? Superb! Composed of salad, mint, parsley, cilantro, olives, feta, lemon confit…And the result? Mouthwatering, digestible, the antithesis of sandwiches stuffed with greasy meat that fill you up on the cheap. Even if, to be honest, their kebab is a little “stingy” with the meat…To drink: S. Pellegrino limonata, buttermilk, Sicilian mandarine and peach juices (drinks €1.70-4.20). Kebabs (grillés) €8.50, fries €3. // Y.N.