Light wooden benches, green tiling, brass-trimmed tables…. It’s more chic than it is rustic, but Isla Calaca, onwed by Anne-Victoire Magescas (ex-Costes) and her brother Xavier-Manuel (ex-L’Office, Le Richer) puts a good ol’ Mexican twist on the enameled tin plates: tasty tacos served in trios (oxtail and cauliflower purée; pork loin, black mole and mashed sweet potatoes; pork with achiote, crispy pig ears, chili sauce and pickled onions); delicious scallop aguachile in a chili-lemon sauce with cilantro, cucumber and red onions, served with crispy corn tortillas; plus a few fusion curiosities like guacamole with foie gras or veal sweetbreads and liver in a crispy cone with salsa verde. The desserts, like diced pumpkin sautéed in butter and orange, with crème fraîche ice cream, all look good. And to drink, choose between French wines (Morgon from Burgaud, Alsace from Trapet, Sancerre from Vacheron, €37 to €40 a bottle) or Mexican beer (Corona, Modelo, Mexicali, €6.50 for 330 ml). Lunch set menu option €10-16, tacos (in pairs) €8-9, à la carte €31-41. // J.G.