La Cave à Michel
The Tischenko brother’s (Le Galopin) wine bar shelters a fine crowd who come to share tapas late at night with the person to their left and a drink with the person squeezed in to their right. As the discreet conductors of this joyous chaos, Romain Tischenko and his team delight the crowds with graceful miniatures, stitched together at the back of the room: excellent smoked sardines over a creamy yogurt sauce; cucumber and mint with peppercorns marinated in elderberry; bluefin tuna sprinkled with raspberries and cilantro; extremely fresh steak tartare with blackberries and red onion; or their classic hard-boiled eggs with homemade mayonnaise. As for the drinks, you don’t even need to be thirsty to enjoy them: La Chaussée Rouge, a striking Gamay from La Grange aux Belles, La Dernière Goutte, an excellent Beaujolais from Cyrille Vuillod, Soif de Loup, a Minervois from Nico Gaignon, etc. Wines by the glass €6-12, bottles €19-111. Plates €2-14. // R.deC.