Deep in the Camargue region, a Nazarene sheepfold watches over the wild orchard – vegetable patch from which the Ducassian-trained chef Armand Arnal’s cuisine springs forth. Under the sun or in the shade of the plane trees, the vegetal menu (€55) proudly emerges in all of its organic and gluten-free glory. Our lunch: thin lentil galettes topped with lemon and sesame hummus biblically set the stage; a butterfly lands on a plate of tender green asparagus illuminated by borage blossoms, wild arugula, lemon and sheep’s milk yogurt; Camargue rice risotto dotted with young broad beans, peas and blood orange juice flirts with a petal and wild herb salad…. Before the Paris-Sambuc pastry overtakes the classic Paris-Brest version with mouthfuls of praline cream, sunflower seeds and rosemary. At night, seated under the string lights and the stars, the clientele is dressed up but the country air remains just as fresh. A sunny and earthy wine collection complements the fare: white wine from the Domaine de Lauzières in the Alpilles (€9 a glass) and a Chardon Marie from Les Terres des Chardons in Nîmes (€35 a bottle). Vegetal menu €55 (lunch during the week) and tasting menu €95 (€125 with food and wine pairings), à la carte €70-90. // M.J.-D.