Already running a handful of successful establishments, the Parisian-bistro magnate Thierry Bourdoncle reigns over this labyrinth-like brasserie with high prices and polished details: timeworn armchairs, small stuffed birds here and there, dark hardwood floors and dim lights illuminating notables dressed in suits, tourists snapping selfies of la vie, and famous Parisians. On the plates, there’s a lot of name-dropping taking place: Desnoyer for the 800-gram rib-eye steak (€125 for two or three people, bim!), Marie-Anne Cantin for the Saint-Félicien cheese (€25, bam!), Berthillon for the sorbets (€11 for two scoops, boom!), etc. Tested and approved: pork loin, caramelized around the edges and served with an excellent bowl of mashed potatoes (€23). And to keep your cool when the bill arrives, a glass of Côtes-du-Rhône rouge for €5.40 a glass. À la carte €37-80. // H.G.