Like driving on the left side of the road, Yard (1 yard = 0.0009144 km) represents this very British way of doing things differently from everyone else. A tradition that Nye Smith (ex-St John and Moro in London) firmly carries on in his modernist space (marble, black wood, weathered metal suspension lamps) and very (br)exciting cuisine! The evening of our visit: sadomasochist fried red mullet fritto misto with zucchini; mouthwatering Iberian pluma nestled into the shell of a roasted onion from Tropea, seasoned with mint and pomegranate seeds; an insane nudist dorade from Brittany in a salt crust, with pan-fried potatoes; duck heart with cherries confit and pickled almonds; and, for dessert, a joyful Eton mess – strawberries and crushed meringue under a layer of whipped cream. In the glasses, you’ll notice the same desire to do battle with traditional wines: Sauvignon P’tit Blanc from Le Clos du Tue-Boeuf or a Côtes-du-Rhône Terre de Galets from Richaud for €6 a glass, a grand Puligny-Montrachet Corvée des Vignes from Jean-Marc Vincent for €99 a bottle. From 6pm to 11pm, shared tapas (€4-12) are served in the adjacent Back Yard restaurant: bonito salad, artichokes in vinaigrette, fried rabbit with tarragon, grilled chorizo…. Set menu options €16-25 (lunch), à la carte €35-45 (dinner). // N.K.