¡Ay, caramba! Anyone looking for a Oaxaca-style cantina would do well to keep searching. At Botanero, you won’t find any whitewashed walls, mariachi crooners or colorful fabrics, just a warm, amber space with melamine tables and a marble bar that’s as looooong as the Siege of the Alamo! As for the menu, the cocktails hoisted into the saddle by the barbudo Nicolas Cruz Mermy (ex-Gravity Bar) spill over the Mexican sierras and gallop across the world: a Provencal pit stop with the Colonel (peanut, Alpin vermouth, lime, pastis, €12), a woodland promenade with Stay A Little (Amaro de Vénétie, madera, Piedmont amaro, €12) or an arctic shot with Kvasir – pear, aquavit, verjus, €7. Otherwise, there are mocktails shaken up on request (€7), and a selection of very South American tapas: ceviche, marinated turkey wings, quesadillas… (€5-10). // A.B.