Is she here, the world champion of cocktails, winner of the 2016 World Class? Yes, and what a talent she is! Surrounded by the retro-vintage décor of the Café Moderne, Jennifer Le Nechet rations out her bitters, slices her fruits and performs alchemy with colors and flavors behind the mahogany bar, all on a short menu with eight extremely complex cocktails (€11 with alcohol and €8 without). The secret behind the complex flavors of the Taco Rojo (€11), in addition to Altos tequila and tabasco? Grilled corn powder on the rim of the glass and a vinegar-cut pepper shrub. And what about the Four Seasons Negroni (€11), apart from the Tanqueray gin, Suze and sherry? A little sous-vide heat via strawberries and bergamot to soften the bitterness of the drink. And what is there to eat with all that? A plate of meatballs, for example (€12). But watch out, they close (too) early! // A.B.