The little sister of East Mamma (rue du Faubourg-Saint-Antoine) is looking good: a cocktail bar space with moldings on the ceiling and giant demijohns of eau-de-vie; suspended ham legs and jars of marinated vegetables in the rustic, narrow trattoria; an immense back dining room with a gigantic tree structure that spreads out its branches between the big mirrors and suspension lamps…. The unstoppable house trilogy is served à la carte: “fabulous Italian ingredients” (bresaola, Parmesan aged for 30 months, delicious smoked stracciatella that you eat with a spoon); giant pizzas cooked in a wood-fired oven (Parmatador with fior di latte, tomatoes, Parma ham and spinach; Puissance 4 with Gorgonzola, mozza, caciocavallo and ricotta…); and fresh pasta with funny names (Hakuna-Ma-Burrata-Ta with Cinta Senese pork cheeks, burrata, zucchini and confit tomatoes or Jean-Franchois Citron with a flavorful anchovy cream, walnuts and lemon zest). Twenty cocktails (€7-12) – including a Rossini spritz with strawberry purée – kick off the giant drink menu, where you’ll find Italian wines organized by color, type and region (a glass of dry Lambrusco Piria for €5, a bottle of Etna bianco Fessina for €44). Italian antipasto €7-11, pizza €12-15, pasta €12-18. And no reservations, of course! // H.S.P.