While waiting for an improbable chance that there’s some hype around Montparnasse again, head to the Rosebud, where nothing has changed since 1962: a mahogany bar polished by generations of elbows resting on it (including those of Sartre, we’ve heard), waffled wallpaper, marble pedestal tables and jazzy tunes for a rather cheeky salt and pepper crowd, disrupted certain evenings by a few VIP intruders. Obviously, the cocktails (€14), made in the blink of an eye by the bartenders dressed in white vests are perfect. Like the Singapour Sling (Beefeater gin, cherry brandy, grenadine syrup, triple sec, lemon juice, pineapple juice, Bénédictine and Angostura bitters) and the Manhattan (bourbon, vermouth, Angostura bitters). Classics served the old-fashioned way, in timeless glasses…. And to keep a level head, there’s brasserie food until midnight and a legendary chili con carne (€16). Fruit cocktails €10. // A.B.