An excellent burger. Like nothing you’ve seen in New York, Texas, Mexico or the Auvergne. The bao burger is made on a big Chinese brioche bun, with cinq épice-marinated beef, onion tempura, onion confit and a caramelized tamarind sauce. It’s the king of Siseng’s menu, this new type of Asian food bar, illuminating a quay on the Canal Saint-Martin with its hanging light bulbs. The blues, a bar, a guy with dreads and a black pen, pensive under a portrait of Bruce Lee, rounded timber, bearded faces and a team of Parisian adventurers, who got their start in the 15th arrondissement…. after Laos and Taiwan. Funny drinks, cocktails that pack a punch — including the dangerous Adaka Jime (vodka, chili, wasabi, cream of grapefruit and apple juice) — and Pan-Asian dishes, combined anyway you please: spring rolls (filled with chicken satay, cumin-marinated chicken or beef meatballs) and an Iki Yuzu beer; tom kha kai (a soup with coconut milk, chicken, lemongrass, galangal, chili and mushrooms) with a sparkling saké; curried shrimp croquettes with lemon leaves, and a black tea with Cayenne pepper, honey and a homemade chrysanthemum syrup… Formula €15 (lunch), dishes €7-12, cocktails €9-13, drinks €3.50 to €25. // Y.N.