Along the highway, in an industrial part of a not-very-wine-centric city, there’s a strange spot worth considering! You’ll find Jean-Marc Espinasse spreading the gospel of organic and natural wines there, with a selection of 500 labels to explore. And if part of the selection is chosen in conjunction with the three other Le Vin Sobre wine shops in Marseille, this former winemaker selects a majority of the bottles himself. A random sampling: a red Progetto Calarius from Puglia (€19); Mambo Sun, a Roussillon Grenache blend from Matassa (€34) or Nuits d’Ivresse, a Loire Cabernet-franc from the Bretons (€19). And there are even a few boxed wines at great prices to choose from (a Côtes-du-Rhône from Philippe Plantevin at €13 for 3 liters), a beautiful selection of craft beers (a beer from the Plaine brewery at €4 for 330 ml), and a few eats to sponge it all up – including some lovely canned goods from La Maison Marc. // A.A.
The bullet-proof bottle: La Sagesse, a Grenache from the Domaine Gramenon (€28).