Is this a swinger’s club heated by wood-fired oven? No, it’s a smoking hot pizzeria! Following on from his Popine saga, the talented Gennaro Nasti (who won the silver medal at the World Championship of Neapolitan Pizza in 2012) invites guests inside his intimate 400° Laboratorio (marble and lacquered wood tables, backlit brick walls, all lit by candlelight…). Expect doughs made with artisanal flour from heirloom wheat, from small producers imported from Italy. Our food orgy of the day? A padellino, or rather a puffed-up piece of dough with Laurent-Perrier Champagne incorporated into it, left to mature for 72 hours and then cooked in a steam oven, before being covered in an indecent amount of fior di latte, speck, excellent taleggio di bufala, and best of all, raw black truffle shavings in all of their decadence. Also available à la carte: Neapolitan pizzas with puffy edges, Roman-style focaccias, rustic costauds (a sort of thick sandwich), caprese torta with chocolate / almonds / orange juice / pistachio cream for dessert… and, as a bonus, an exhibitionist lunch menu, featuring a mamma miargherita pizza for 11 bucks, among other delicious options… Ancora! // Kelly Slatée
FEELING THIRSTY? Papa’s Italian wines: a Sicilian red from Alta Mora (€60 a bottle), a Campania Biancollela from La Casa d’Ambra (€40), a Tuscan Cabernet-Sauvignon from La Tenuta Fertuna (€50), a dry Prosecco from Ca’ del Bosco (€109)… And after all that, a Toralda coffee made with a Bialetti stovetop coffee maker (€10, to share).
PRICE: Set menus €15-28 (lunch), antipasto €8-18, pizza €13-35, focaccias €24-28, desserts €12-14.
