Innkeeper Hélène Lebonnois (a former cultural attaché at the Institut Français in Dresden) and chef Matthieu Caziot (who used to work at Bean & Beluga in the same city) are now gallivanting about in a former communal inn in the south of the Morvan, transformed into a colorful bed & breakfast and a delightfully unhinged restaurant. At the latter, you’ll find an adventurous menu composed around local and organic ingredients, like the night we went, seated on the adorable terrace: an alluring naan painted with wild garlic, duck pastrami and pickled blackcurrants; delightful cauliflower beignets with an Époisses cheese emulsion and fig chutney for dipping; and juicy leg of suckling lamb, swimming in a madras curry jus and served with a sunchoke and tarragon purée. What about dessert? There was a ratafia baba, paired with a quince-elderblossom jelly and a pear-saffron sorbet. It’s worth noting that the inn is open during the day for drinks and snacks (homemade terrine, goat’s cheese from a neighboring farm…). // Henri Depecker
FEELING THIRSTY? In addition to the classic local wines served by the glass (like this Pinot noir / Gamaret blend from Aurélien Febvre for €7), the couple, who used to live in Germany, also offer up a selection of wines from the other side of the Rhine River: an orange wine from a certain Dupont de Ligonnès (€40 a bottle), a Berlin-made herb liqueur (€5 for 40 ml)…
PRICE: Set menus €22 (lunch), €32-36 (dinner), kids €12. Brunch €28 (Sunday).
