restaurant

Auberge de Poil

Restaurant Auberge de Poil (Poil)

© Auberge de Poil

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Innkeeper Hélène Lebonnois (a former cultural attaché at the Institut Français in Dresden) and chef Matthieu Caziot (who used to work at Bean & Beluga in the same city) are now gallivanting about in a former communal inn in the south of the Morvan, transformed into a colorful bed & breakfast and a delightfully unhinged restaurant. At the latter, you’ll find an adventurous menu composed around local and organic ingredients, like the night we went, seated on the adorable terrace: an alluring naan painted with wild garlic, duck pastrami and pickled blackcurrants; delightful cauliflower beignets with an Époisses cheese emulsion and fig chutney for dipping; and juicy leg of suckling lamb, swimming in a madras curry jus and served with a sunchoke and tarragon purée. What about dessert? There was a ratafia baba, paired with a quince-elderblossom jelly and a pear-saffron sorbet. It’s worth noting that the inn is open during the day for drinks and snacks (homemade terrine, goat’s cheese from a neighboring farm…). // Henri Depecker

FEELING THIRSTY? In addition to the classic local wines served by the glass (like this Pinot noir / Gamaret blend from Aurélien Febvre for €7), the couple, who used to live in Germany, also offer up a selection of wines from the other side of the Rhine River: an orange wine from a certain Dupont de Ligonnès (€40 a bottle), a Berlin-made herb liqueur (€5 for 40 ml)…
PRICE: Set menus €22 (lunch), €32-36 (dinner), kids €12. Brunch €28 (Sunday). 

Le Fooding’s 2022 Guide is fresh out of the oven!

What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover
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