If our previous visits weren’t particularly conclusive (imprecise dishes, seasoning issues, etc.), the restaurant run by Marie Dijon (ex-Trois Quarts and Grain de Sel), Eugénie Cenatiempo (a former architect) and Laura Samzun (a former geographer) seems to have finally found the recipe for success! The idea behind their concept? Place your order directly with the chefs inside their big open kitchen, then grab your platter a few minutes later and take it outside to the communal tables on the big, colorful terrace. The other day at lunch, we had: smoked and breaded meagre fillet (that wasn’t even greasy!) served with an incredible dill aioli for dipping, and a mini fennel salad (that was under-seasoned, such a shame!); ultra-tender beef pressé intensified by a translucent ginger and verbena beef jus, paired with roasted corn; before an excellent blackberry, white chocolate and fennel seed cookie. Other tantalizing options seen on the menu: steak tartare seasoned with apricot, harissa and monkfish liver mayonnaise, or ricotta and lemon ravioli with cacao and sage butter, plus a chocolate and caramel cream with peanuts for dessert… // A.A.
FEELING THIRSTY? A dozen natural wines at more-than-reasonable prices: La Partouze, a Rhone rosé from the Domaine du Petit Oratoire (€4.50 a glass), Haute Côt(e) de Fruit, a Cahors from Fabien Jouves (€19 a bottle), in addition to the surprisingly traditional Bordeaux wines from Les Vignobles André Lurton.
PRICE: À la carte €24-35.