Copains

After learning the ropes for a few months, the (petits) Copains Pauline Lagon (ex-Copper Roots in Lyon) and Jules Girandon (ex-Maison Clovis, in Lyon as well) seem to have nailed down the winning formula: carefully sourced ingredients, precise techniques, rich sauces and a natural wine list! The other night while seated in the big bric-à-brac dining room (an old-fashioned china cabinet, a macramé swing chair, French school chairs), the couple sent out an impressive tasting menu: excellent coppa served with garlic butter and some fabulous bread from the Pain Pan! bakery; a Chirac-inspired beef, pork, hazelnut and cranberry terrine dotted with various pickles (onions, carrots, etc.); an oeuf parfait with pan-fried shiitake mushrooms, placed atop a lovely split pea purée; Aubrac steak smoked over hay, cooked to perfection and paired with buttery parsnip purée, a brilliant jus de viande and a striking anchovy / taggiasche olive condiment; a pre-dessert composed of chocolate ice cream, cocoa nibs and piment d’Espelette; before a delicious deconstructed frangipane galette (even if we would have preferred the classic version), composed of smooth almond ice cream, siphoned almond cream, crispy flaky pastry triangles and a sensational frangipane center. // Antoine Antoine

FEELING THIRSTY? Over 80 organic labels to choose from: a Fleurie from Jean-Louis Dutraive (€7 a glass), a Chenin Angevin produced by Patrick Baudouin (€37), a buttery Meursault from Rémi Jobard (€98 a bottle)…
PRICE: Set menus €38-44.