Coucou you two! Serial restaurateurs Franck Baranger and Édouard Bobin (Le Pantruche, Caillebotte, Belle Maison, Café Mirette…) handed over the reins to this spot to Pauline Labrousse, who trained at École Ferrandi, used to work at Caillebotte and is now an official partner in this venture. The ambiance is cool, the decor fashionable (unfinished walls, white paint, blonde wood) and the open kitchen is in the middle of the dining room, a real treat for curious customers. Pauline whips up bistronomic classics with no false notes, like the other day at lunch when she served a delightful pork tenderloin with tonnato sauce, celery, capers, croutons and pecans, paired with Poujauran bread to wipe the plate clean. For the mains, choose your vice (meat or fish) and your side: for us, it was mi-cuit Albacore tuna, new potatoes, flat beans and a coconut-peanut sauce – an excellent choice! For dessert, a vanilla cream puff stuffed with cardamom cream and caramel, a more conventional choice, selected from other treats – chocolate ganache with marsala, coffee crumble and mascarpone, or cherries flambéed with kirsch, sorbet and rose yogurt. And every Saturday at brunch, there’s a full menu featuring eggs Benedict and roasted chicken! // Albert Gredinbar
FEELING THIRSTY? A mini selection of wines with integrity – a Petit Chablis from Vincent Wengier (€8 a glass), Les Natures, a Riesling from Jean-Baptiste Adam (€28 a bottle), a Madiran from the Domaine Capmartin, a sweet blend of Tannat and Cabernet Sauvignon varietals (€29) – and craft beers, like the Faubourg Pilsner from Bapbap (€6.50 for 330 ml).
PRICE: Set menus €19 (weekday lunch), brunch €29 (Saturday at lunch), €36 (dinner), à la carte €35-42.
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