From the ashes of L’Amphitryon – the Michelin-starred restaurant that Yannick Delpech ran for 25 years – a new restaurant has been born: a contemporary dining room doubled by an immense terrace that opens out onto the garden, plus a cocktail bar, a wine cellar and a pastry shop. It’s a hybrid space that also houses labs where pastries and charcuterie are prepared to be dealt out in the downtown shops. The chef looks to the ground rather than to the sky when preparing his earthy cuisine nourished by Occitan artisans and producers. Served à la carte, the night we went: a respectable vitello tonnato roll – veal rump, bluefin tuna, an anchovy and Parmesan sauce; tender slow-roasted pork belly with piquillo peppers stuffed with ground pork; before an elegant pavlova with Gariguette strawberries, basil sorbet and lemon cream. // Auguste Marie
FEELING THIRSTY? A naturalistic wine collection, which can be taken to go as well: La Sabina, a Côtes-du-Roussillon white from Le Clos del Rey (€9 a glass), B to B, a Corbières white from Le Mas des Caprices (€53 a bottle), Les Anciens, an Aveyron red from Patrick Rols (€42).
PRICE: Menus €29 (lunch except Sunday) and €63, brunch €29 (Sunday), à la carte €55-65.
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