In her marble-clad Fripon, Pauline Séné (ex-Cobéa and a former contestant on Top Chef France) stitches together elegant plates, served on immaculate tablecloths. The night we went, they were utterly delicate: very fresh oysters with a cilantro, nuoc-mâm and kumquat sauce; delicious shellfish with herbs, roasted celery and a briny, lemony emulsion; incredible bacon-wrapped scallops paired with Japanese artichokes (a type of root vegetable) in a buttery miso sauce, served with bread from the neighboring bakery Elements to wipe the plate clean; before a heartening chocolate-peanut mousse with a caramel and black tea gavotte cookie – or some stunning Breton shortbread with charcoal and quince tucked into a black sesame cream. // Zinnia
FEELING THIRSTY? An all-natural selection: an Auvergne white from Patrick Bouju (€7.50 a glass), a Venetian red from Silvia Tezza (€8), a Catalan orange wine from Amós Bañeres (€45 a bottle)…
PRICE: Set menu €21-25 (lunch), à la carte €36-45 (dinner).
