Does an excursion to the Marais neighborhood leave you feeling even more lost than Crusoe? Head to Ilô, a bistrological haven that’s cast anchor in French-Japanese waters, just a stone’s throw from Arsenal. That’s where a young team with experience in the world of Michelin star restaurants is hard at work in a space with rather sober decor (big exposed stones, a ruby red wall, dark wooden tables) and Japanese funk coming from the speakers. At the helm? The corkscrew-wielder Yuki Onuma (ex-Bristol, ERH and Sola), who is very focused on sake, backed up by filmmaker and restaurateur Hikaru Fray. And for their treasure-laden menu, chef Seiya Kumabe (who also used to work at Sola), with barely 24 years to his name, sent out all of the following the night we went: a tonic sea bream ceviche moistened by a strawberry-raspberry vinaigrette and a zing of grapefruit; an izayaka-esque potesala (potato salad) placed atop a bed of red cabbage, all seasoned with some cubed chorizo and pickled jalapeños; divine pork belly with golden skin, cleverly glazed in soy sauce and paired with warm lettuce hearts; a graceful cod steak in a tender green ankake sauce – peas, spinach and watercress; before an indecently good vanilla-Parmesan ice cream sprinkled with fresh blueberries and strawberries, prepared by the house pastry chef Sumire Onuma. // Cléo Tangerine
FEELING THIRSTY? Just what you need in terms of natural wine made from grapes or rice, plus plenty of good advice: Akitora junmai sake (€10 a glass) or Wakaze sake (€12), a Luberon orange wine from the Domaine Alloïs (€11), a Gamay from the Graillot family (€34 a bottle), a Touraine Chenin from Bonnigal-Bodet (€48)…
PRICE: Set menu €38 (lunch), à la carte €31-50 (dinner).
