La Coudée

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Clément Cailleau, the former sommelier for Jean-Luc Rabanel in Arles, rounded up his bottles and opened this pretty cave à manger (big wooden rafters, pastel-colored walls, bistro furniture) in what used to be the old Opéra Broc restaurant. Now his own boss, Clem’ serves up promising local cuisine, which was still being perfected the day we went: good deviled eggs or big shredded pork croquettes as the appetizers; an extremely tender veal chop for two, served with new potatoes that were unfortunately a little overcooked and too buttery, plus red cabbage; or hearty octopus stew with red Camargue rice; before a subtle lemon meringue tart by the Marseille pastry chef Monsieur Chou. Other options at night: hang out at the bar with a plate of Bellota chorizo or Iberian lomo ham! // Gwen Jacquère 

FEELING THIRSTY? A wine list that tends to be natural, oscillating seamlessly between bottles produced by friends (Super Modeste, a Provence pet’ nat’ white from the Domaine de Sulauze at €3.50 a glass, a deep Alsatian Pinot from Olivier Carl of Les Vins Pirouettes at €40 a bottle) and major players (a Bâtard-Montrachet grand cru from Vincent Giradin at €890, a 2013 Languedoc from La Grange aux Pères, whose price is provided upon request!). 
PRICE: À la carte €27-34, platters €6.50 to €15. 

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