La Table de La Butte

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Somewhere between Brest and Roscoff stands La Butte, a cube-shaped contemporary inn overlooking the mesmerizing Côte des Légendes bay, which was given a makeover in 2021 by Solène and Nicolas Conraux. Here you’ll find Nicolas whipping up his telluric, briny cuisine that pays homage to the tides and the liorzh (the garden). The night we went, seated in the dining room with views of the bay, the €180 prix-fixe menu opened with a crispy, lace-like crepe with the flavors of a classic complète (ham, egg cheese); an elegant mushroom fricassee with tangy fruit “leather”; intensely flavorful scallops with an unusual texture (they were slow cooked) and a beurre blanc sauce infused with dulse seaweed; a warm oyster and buckwheat cream that felt like an uncannily obvious flavor combo; flame-charred red mullet with Delicata squash and a full-bodied jus; deep sea abalone with saffron from Pouldreuzic and sunchokes; marvelous chicken from Culoiseau that was crispy yet still tender, with black truffle and al dente green cabbage; apple and cardamom kefir water to transition between the sweet and savory courses; sparingly sweetened glazed pear with a fermented stem, Kampot pepper and flavorful meringue; and a lace-like crepe with salted caramel cream. What about Sundays, you ask? The Finistere’s most stunning brunch is served at Le Comptoir de la Butte: a feast of oysters, Breton charcuterie, home-smoked trout, beef Wellington, salt-crust bass, roasted scallops, inspired crepes, Comac cheese platters, granolas and baked goods from Le Fournil de la Butte, far breton and fabulous cakes, all washed down with freshly made juices. // Marcelle Ratafia 

FEELING THIRSTY? Food and wine pairings (€38 to €72 for two to four glasses) chosen from a collection that focuses on natural wines: Ro-Rée, a Saint-Joseph white from Louis Chèze; a Saint-Aubin from Julien Altaber; a Montlouis from Ludovic Chanson; Les Riaux, a Burgundy Pinot noir from Dominique Derain… 
PRICE: Set menus €89 to €180, kids’ menu €38; brunch at Le Comptoir de la Butte for €55 (Sundays). 

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