After making Le Rocher tremble, the talented chef Manon Fleury set up shop at Le Perchoir Ménilmontant for a high-altitude residency! On the sixth floor of an industrial building, the virtuoso and her (entirely female) team bombarded the crowd with their liberated and virtuous plant-forward cuisine. The night we went, Manon gave an acrobatic performance in eight acts: an airy asparagus mousse with kasha and a light asparagus consommé to rinse it all down, plus buckwheat wafers topped with strawberries and acacia blossom as a prelude to the meal; crisp spring onions, green garlic and pearl barley, all drizzled in geranium-infused oil; dizzyingly good monkfish with a wonderfully pearly texture, wrapped in a chard leaf and served with a hazelnut condiment; comforting and delicious spelt porridge, with creamy rice, peas and sorrel; beetroot baked in a salt crust and hydrated with a vegetable jus – we sponged up every last drop with the heirloom wheat brioche; before a velvety sweet clover cream pimped out with cherries glazed in syrup, then semolina cooked in almond milk that was (a little too) plain, and one final flight of fancy to end the meal with an elderberry ice cream and a delightful cubed marshmallow dusted in lemon verbena powder. This vegetal kingdom is so beautiful when seen from above! // Carla Fouti
FEELING THIRSTY? A natural wine selection to give you wings: Spanish sparkling wine from the Cellar 9+ estate (€42 a bottle), an Austrian red from the Domaine 2Naturkinder (€59), a Loire Chenin from the Mosses (€70)…. Otherwise, there are classic Negroni and gin & tonic cocktails (€13), carefully sourced craft beer (Brasserie des Voirons, €32 for 750 ml), and fig leaf kombucha to tickle your microbiome (€5).
PRICE: Menu €95.