That Lolo sure has a lot of nerve! It seems popping open bottles at his wine bar on Rue de Châteaudun wasn’t enough for Loïc Minel, who is never without his partner-in-crime Christophe Juville. These days, the two of them are taking Faubourg Poissonnière by storm! In their new bistro, in what used to be Les Bols de Jean (Imbert), they pair good meat with fine bottles of wine, serving a handful of cleverly crafted plates. In a space with neon lights and unfinished walls, chef Zac Gannat (ex-Frenchie Covent Gardens in London) sent out all of the following the night we went: plump flatbread dotted with raw milk cheddar; scallop carpaccio intensified by ginger and an orange condiment; a libidinous scotch egg that was nice and jammy in the center, wrapped up in merguez sausage meat; divine peas tucked into a bed of creamy ricotta; a saucy pork chop from the Ferme de La Gruzardière prepared Milanese style, paired with white asparagus and wild garlic – which was a tad bland; before a rice pudding topped with miso-infused whipped cream and caramelized hazelnuts, if you want to gain a few kilolos! // Agathe Braun
FEELING THIRSTY? Good natural wines: a Catalan red from Le Clos Lentiscus (€41 a bottle), an Angevin Chenin from the Vaillant family (€36), a Languedoc white from La Sorga (€46)…
PRICE: Appetizers €7-14, mains €14-49, desserts €7-8.
