Le Fooding Guide’s 2013 crush
Le Guide Fooding’s 2017 Man of the Year
In his carefully beat-up storage room/bistro (a broken door, beams that scar the walls, industrial suspension lamps and the neon lights you’d expect to find in a hangar), Katsuaki Okiyama can have the least enthusiastic diner feeling ecstatic. Insane at lunch, it only gets better at night! During our last dinner there: divine raw bonito with raspberries, tomato soup, shiso and cilantro; a warm, autumnal bone marrow flan with a girolle mushroom and hazelnut espuma; a verbena and pattypan squash velouté interlude; a delicate interpretation of la belle et la blette – splendidly pan-fried monkfish, potato espuma with honey and chard cooked in butter; bloody duck breast with an excellent red wine sauce, turnips and zucchini; and a thunderous chocolate-hazelnut lava-cake with cocoa ice cream. To drink, the wines are alive and natural: Sancerre straight from the vineyards of Vacheron (€8 a glass) or a Touraine rouge from Le Clos du Tue-Bœuf (€28 a bottle). As for their legendary sandwiches made with breaded pork and a secret sauce, they only serve them on Saturdays at lunch (€13 with a drink and a madeleine). Menus €26 (lunch) and €49 (dinner). // A.A.