Fooding d’amour Guide 2013
Katsuaki Okiyama, Fooding d’honneur Guide 2017
Did you know that the set menu at Abri is never really “set” per se? It’s Katsuaki Okiyama’s specialty: four plates, described to you out loud and with the guarantee that the next table over, who arrived five minutes after you, won’t be eating the same thing! Savor it in the tiny bomb-shelter-like space, with a few clever details (stainless steel suspension light fixtures which let insiders know that the house actually has good taste…). And since we’re not coming to Abri for the décor (there isn’t any), we focus all of our energy instead of the missiles sent out by the dynamic chef (ex-Agapé Bis). During our last lunch there: translucent bass carpaccio topped with mandolined daikon radish and cod roe; soft risotto with mussels, cauliflower and grated kohlrabi; then an exotic and pearly-white cod with a coconut-lemongrass emulsion and sautéed tetragonia; followed by a gourmet chocolate-coffee lava cake with fresh cherries. A staggering moment of finesse with masterful techniques and seasonings – there’s no salt or pepper on the tables! At night, Katsu serves more of the same, but with three additional courses, for €52. As for the drinks, clients can rest easy knowing there won’t be any bad surprises: an extraordinary Bandol rosé from the Château de la Bégude (€7 a glass), a Burgundy red from Maréchal, with lots of body and spice (€8), a trustworthy Poignée de Raisins from Gramenon or a Vouvray from the Bretons (€36 and €39 a bottle). They serve their cult-favorite multilayered sandwich on Saturdays (set menu option for €13), menus €26 (lunch) and €52 (dinner). // G.D.