Fooding d’amour Guide 2013
Katsuaki Okiyama, Fooding d’honneur Guide 2017
Having trained under the greats (Robuchon, Taillevent), in 2012, Katsuaki Okiyama took shelter inside this narrow refuge (blonde wood furniture, exposed stone walls, copper suspension lamps), where the 20 lucky guests share the space with the kitchen and fridges. Who, for the most part, wait up to six weeks to get a seat elbow-to-elbow at this virtuoso’s restaurant, for his incredible menus – €26 at lunch and €52 at dinner. The other day: reinvigorating leeks vinaigrette with salmon roe and Asian seasonings – or an orgasmic soft-boiled egg in a jacuzzi of white asparagus; impeccable veal lacquered in its jus and served with a butternut squash cream; before a majestic millefeuille topped with coconut ice cream and rhubarb chips. So many good excuses to pop open a wonderful bottle of wine: a Crozes-Hermitage white from the Domaine des Entrefaux (€7 a glass), a Chardonnay from Thomas Pico (€35 a bottle), a biotic Côtes-du-Roussillon, Laïs rouge, from Olivier Pithon (€47). Sandwich set menu €13 (Saturday at lunch), menus €26 (lunch) and €52 (dinner). // N.K.