Abri (Paris)

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In the grandiose yet oh-so-tiny Abri, Katsuaki Okiyama brings atomic flavors to grande cuisine. You won’t find a sign out front or even so much as a penny spent on the décor (rough walls, French school chairs, vintage light fixtures, a kitchen bar), but this voodoo magician chef – a culinary descendant of Diogène and Robuchon – strips back the fussy manners of haute gastronomy with his deal-of-the-century lunchtime tasting menu. The day we went, the six courses were composed of: a sashimi-esque high note of bluefin tuna fused with tomatoes, smoked beets, raspberries, green hazelnuts and purple shiso; a Miyazaki-esque zucchini blossom stuffed with fish and mushroom duxelles, surrounded by shellfish and chanterelles, with a chanterelle/onion emulsion and a saffrony court bouillon with briny notes; a shamanic apple and rosemary emulsion over a bed of pale green leek velouté that was as smooth as silk; a Gainsbarre-inspired monkfish with a variety of cabbages (kale, green, pointy and kohlrabi), electrified by a white wine and watercress cream; stunning roasted duck breast in an orchestral sauce diable with carrot mousseline, butter-glazed vegetables, chard and beetroot; before a ping pong match between wild strawberries and rhubarb, cheered on by a barely sweetened caramel ice cream, a hibiscus infusion and a litchi espuma. K.O. really serves a knock out meal! // M.J.-D.

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a short selection of natural wines to choose from: an Alsatian Riesling from Christian Binner (€10 a glass), a Loire Chenin from Nicolas Reau (€32 a bottle), a Greek red from the Kalathas estate (€88)… Or even a French sake from Les Larmes du Levant (€74 for 720 ml).

PRCE: Prix-fixe menus €55 (lunch) and €65 (dinner), katsu sando + drink €14 (Saturday lunch).

Le Fooding’s 2022 Guide is fresh out of the oven!

What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover


Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allow you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting… In short, something to keep you on your toes at all times!

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