Fooding d’amour Guide 2013
Katsuaki Okiyama, Fooding d’honneur Guide 2017
Abri-cadabra! The great illusionist Katsuaki Okiyama (ex-Robuchon and Taillevent) is still amazing guests inside his magic bistronomic cubbyhole (a basic zinc bar, unfinished walls, wild floors), where he performs culinary tricks for a dozen lucky guests at both lunch and dinner. The day we went for lunch, for only €30 (!), he ended up making our demanding appetites disappear with what was worthy of a standing ovation: Houdini-esque tuna sashimi layered with tapenade, pine nuts and capers, hidden under a grapefruit carpaccio; superb charred cauliflower walking over a hot lava of court bouillon with saffron and summer vegetables, under a sprinkling of mussels and peanuts; paranormal roasted guinea fowl with potatoes and carrot purée bewitched by the drippings; before one final trick with a candied cherry, strawberry sorbet and verbena leaf combo! Otherwise, every Saturday lunch they serve their legendary katsu sando (a sandwich made on toasted bread with a perfect pork tonkatsu, cheese, cabbage and Japanese omelet), which will have you licking your fingers clean. // A.A.
FEELING THIRSTY? Natural beauties: a Loire Chenin from Bobinet; a Drôme Grenache from the Domaine Gramenon (€8 a glass); a Sancerre blanc from Riffault (€55); a red Coteaux de Champlitte from François de Nicolay in the Franch-Comté (€44).
PRICE: Menus €30 (lunch) and €60 (dinner), katsu sando + a drink €14 (Saturday lunch).