In the grandiose yet oh-so-tiny Abri, Katsuaki Okiyama brings atomic flavors to grande cuisine. You won’t find a sign out front or even so much as a penny spent on the décor (rough walls, French school chairs, vintage light fixtures, a kitchen bar), but this voodoo magician chef – a culinary descendant of Diogène and Robuchon – strips back the fussy manners of haute gastronomy with his deal-of-the-century lunchtime tasting menu. The day we went, the six courses were composed of: a sashimi-esque high note of bluefin tuna fused with tomatoes, smoked beets, raspberries, green hazelnuts and purple shiso; a Miyazaki-esque zucchini blossom stuffed with fish and mushroom duxelles, surrounded by shellfish and chanterelles, with a chanterelle/onion emulsion and a saffrony court bouillon with briny notes; a shamanic apple and rosemary emulsion over a bed of pale green leek velouté that was as smooth as silk; a Gainsbarre-inspired monkfish with a variety of cabbages (kale, green, pointy and kohlrabi), electrified by a white wine and watercress cream; stunning roasted duck breast in an orchestral sauce diable with carrot mousseline, butter-glazed vegetables, chard and beetroot; before a ping pong match between wild strawberries and rhubarb, cheered on by a barely sweetened caramel ice cream, a hibiscus infusion and a litchi espuma. K.O. really serves a knock out meal! // M.J.-D.
FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a short selection of natural wines to choose from: an Alsatian Riesling from Christian Binner (€10 a glass), a Loire Chenin from Nicolas Reau (€32 a bottle), a Greek red from the Kalathas estate (€88)… Or even a French sake from Les Larmes du Levant (€74 for 720 ml).
PRCE: Prix-fixe menus €55 (lunch) and €65 (dinner), katsu sando + drink €14 (Saturday lunch).