Achi (Paris)

© Rosa Poulsard

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Since opening in May on Avenue Parmentier, and after a lovely makeover from Basile Vaillant, Fabien Dardillac and Mahmoud El Behisy, this eatery/wine shop/épicerie has a lot to brag about: waxed concrete floors, striking skylights, a custom-built zinc-topped bar…. And moreover, the carefully sourced ingredients transformed by chef Sacha Ouss, a former computer scientist who switched careers to work in the bistro-sphere, and his sous-chef Charlotte Drouhin (ex-Tannat). The day we went for lunch, the kitchen sent out all of the following for the reasonable price of €21: comforting celeriac served raw and as a mousseline, with preserved egg yolk; a flavorful herbed sausage with a smoked potato purée, kimchi and a reduction; before a sensational hazelnut streusel with strawberries and a Sichuan pepper spiced whipped cream. The house also serves sandwiches to go, like the pita bread version filled with falafel, pickled carrots and a tahini sauce. Nothing short of delightful! Rosa Poulsard

FEELING THIRSTY? A wine selection crafted by the jack-of-all-trades, Jules Lavergne: a Pays nantais Melon-de-Bourgogne from the Domaine du Haut-Planty (€22 a bottle), a Nivernais Pinot noir and Gamay produced by Mathieu Coste (€30), a Mâcon-Villages from the Bret Brothers (€60 for a magnum)…

PRICE: Dish of the day €14, set menus €17-21.

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2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover


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