Restaurant Achille in ParisAchille (Paris) - © Matthieu Jauniau-Dallier

In restaurant mythology, Pierre Jancou shines high from Olympia as the father figure to the atmospheric Crèmerie, Racines, Vivant and Vivant Cave. In his new, painfully birthed bistro (a broken heel during construction…), Jancou limps between the light wood tables and mirrors speckled with age. He’s backed up by Svante Forstorp, the metaphysical Swedish chef recently seen at Les Deux Amis. With his Achillean talent, Jancou has powered on to create a short menu filled with noble Italian specialties, sitting gustatorily between puffs of sea spray and herby mouthfuls. The thinly sliced, translucent fat on the guanciale di Nero Bardo is ethereal and simply melts in the mouth while the alfonsino tartare vibrates under a pile of aromatic and medicinal herbs from Annie Bertin (nettle, comfrey, sorrel, crystalline iceplant, borage flower). Dip into dishes as you see fit: tagliolini with an intense freshness from the pecorino and Amalfi lemon; let the albacore tuna drift you away on holiday, grilled until pink, massaged with basil and served with a smoked eggplant caviar and lemon leaves; delicate chocolate coarse like bark, melted and then chilled, that you bite into along with a handful of cherries – a desert of deliciously natural simplicity. The natural wines are at their zenith: ironically smooth Brutal a Gamay from Auvergne produced by Patrick Bouju (€8 a glass) or the very dressed up Sauvignon Amme from Samuel Boulay (€39 a bottle). À la carte €45-60. No prix-fixe menu. // Matthieu Jauniau-Dallier

Getting there

Restaurant Achille
43, rue Servan
TEL: + 33 1 48 06 54 59
Subway: Père Lachaise, Rue Saint-Maur