Adar

Is the Passage des Panoramas the new obligatory rite of passage for young star chefs? After Shinichi Sato (Passage 53), Sven Chartier and Simone Tondo (Racines), Levantine chef Tamir Nahmias (ex-Frenchie and Fulgurances) has decided to seek asylum there for his tiny café named Adar, Yiddish for “abundance” or “generosity”. In a space with well-stocked shelves and a tiled kitchen, nibble on cheeky dishes with the flavors of the Fertile Crescent. The day we went, the lunch menu was a bit like if Yotam Ottolenghi and Omar Koreitem (Moknonuts) were cooking together in tandem: homemade bread to dip into hummus and labneh; summer tabbouleh with broad beans, onions and celery; Datterino tomato and spinach salad with feta and pine nuts; a mixture of cabbage, carrots, fenugreek and fermented mango; incredible chicken with artichokes, chickpeas, preserved lemon, cooking juices and ras el-hanout, and optional homemade harissa or amba – an Iraqi condiment made with green mangoes and chilies; before an incredible hazelnut babka or a spellbinding shortbread with lemony date paste to go with a Turkish coffee. The ultimate hack: the house also makes sandwiches to go. // J.G.

FEELING THIRSTY? That’s a miniature selection for maximum fun: three wines served by the glass, including an Alsace from Boesch (€6), along with Deck & Donohue beer (€5 for 330 ml) or pomegranate juice (€4.90).

PRICE: Menu €20 (lunch), salads €5-8 a portion, sandwich option €10-12 (with a drink).