The Neapolitan condottiere, Matteo Caprioli, (ex-Big Mamma and Daroco) is still a mighty challenger in the Parisian pizza game! At his terraced restaurant with a mere dozen seats, the ragazzo carefully kneads his dough with hints of hazelnutty flavor. Smoking hot out of the electric copper oven, the day we went for lunch, there was an ultra-gourmet Rave Party topped with golden fior di latte, Napoli sausage and a cream of friarielli (small rapini); an atomic AddoMarinar made with seasoned tomato sauce, garlic, anchovies and black olives from Gaeta; or even an indecent Provola e Pepe 2.0 combining tomato sauce from Sant’Antonio Abate, datterino tomatoes, fresh provola from Agerola and grilled Calabrian spianata. As for the dolci, there are some tasty Sicilian pistachio cream pizzettas or a cake of the week – this time around it was a torta caprese (chocolate and almond lava cake). // F.P. et G.V.
FEELING THIRSTY? There are Italian wines: a pet’ nat’ from Alla Costiera in Abruzzo (€7 a glass), a natural Umbrian Sangiovese from the Domaine Dinamo (€6), a Roman Blanc de noirs from Piana Dei Castelli (€35 a bottle)…
PRICE: Antipasto €7-9, pizzas from €9.50 to €19, desserts €7-9.