Åke table & vin
Best cave à manger Guide 2020
THE RESTAURANT HAD TO CLOSE ITS DOORS (THE WINE CELLAR REMAINS OPEN). LINDA AND JULIEN ARE LOOKING FOR A NEW LOCATION.
After two months of renovations, the cave à manger Au Quai has become “Åke” (a Swedish boy’s name that is pronounced the same as “au quai”… or “okay”!), with chef Linda Granebring, formerly of Broken Arm, still running the show. In between the open kitchen and ochre walls lined with bottles of wine, the elfish chef dolls out her luminous legumes to hungry fans. The night we went, her delicate little plates had a direct line to the cosmos: a flirtatious sea bream in a light fumet, with kohlrabi, sun-dried tomatoes and cilantro; chicken given a golden hue with spices, spicy mayonnaise and a sprinkling of sesame seeds; a spring salad of zucchini, mint, wheat and lemon confit; crispy fried gnocchi in browned butter with rosemary and pancetta; before cookies & cream made with chocolate, caramel and vanilla yogurt – or a lemon-almond cake with rhubarb – for the fantastic dessert. // J.G.
FEELING THIRSTY? Dug up from naturophile Alain Hing’s enoteca, the house’s thirstiest member (whose thirst-quenching wine shop can be found right next door): a gentle Carignan from Le Clos Massotte in the Roussillon (€18 a bottle), a classy Loire Sauvignon from Noëlla Morantin (€28 a bottle), a rare Gard blend from the Domaine de Rapatel (€25)… Corkage €7, wine by the glass starting at €5.
PRICE: Plates €7-13.