Ever since her Parisian izakaya 6036 shut down, we lost track of Haruka Casters. But now, the former student of Sven Chartier (Saturne) and Katsuaki Okiyama (Abri) has reappeared in Belle-Ile-en-Mer, in a sober house that’s been transformed into a zen-like neo-bistro (white walls, blonde wood tables, bamboo suspension lamps), with a terrace and a vegetable patch. Going by the name of AO (“blue-green” in Japanese), don’t expect to find more tapas, but rather a menu that mixes influences from here and over there. Demonstrated the night we went, with a masterful suite of dishes: a Pre-Raphaelite European plaice carpaccio in a spicy yuzu vinaigrette, with cucumber and peppers (€10); Caravaggisti-esque veal rump with strips of eggplant, cabbage leaves and confit tomatoes (€24); and a very tasty chocolate Genoise sponge with passion fruit sorbet (€8). As for the drinks, Haruka remains loyal to her Parisian faves: Le Versant, a white Pays-d’Oc from Vignobles Foncalieu (€6 a glass), a red Côtes-Catalanes from the Domaine Sarda-Malet (€28 a bottle), Japanese Coedo Kyara beer (€6.50 for 330 ml) or nakadori junmai Sayori sake (€6 for 60 ml). On the weekends, she gets back to basics with a Japanese menu on Saturday (eg: miso soup; breaded tonkatsu pork with rice, vegetables and an oeuf parfait; rhubarb clafoutis) and a Nipponese brunch on Sundays – karaage chicken, teriyaki salmon, watermelon shortcake, matcha tiramisu… Menus €24 (Saturday at lunch) and €38 (dinner). Brunch €28 (Sunday). // J.G.