Arrantzaleak! The name resonates like that of a great sea monster, feared by anchovies, lobsters and turbots which all end up in lemony butter here – watch out little fishies! Tucked away on the banks of the Nivelle River, Ramuntxo Courdé’s timeless seafood inn makes the fish market crackle, parillada after parillada, under the jealous gaze of the seagulls. On the fire the day we went for lunch, the €38 menu included: Dantesque mussels with parsley nestled in their shells; perfect line-caught hake with thyme, fried garlic, sweet chilies from Anglet and a zucchini macédoine – or a delicious “don’t-discard-the-fat” Ospital pork with pickled onion, pepper sauce vierge and potato salad with tartar sauce; before a sheep’s milk tomme cheese with honey and Ascain corn bread, followed by a nice chocolate “pralinette” cake with sheep’s milk ice cream and mango coulis. // H.Z.
FEELING THIRSTY? Illori, an Irouléguy from the Domaine Brana in red and white (€5 a glass), a Beaujolais from “Kéké” Descombes (€26 a bottle), an Irouléguy from Bordaxuria (€42) or a Saint-Joseph from Dard et Ribo (€50).
PRICE: Menus €38 (except Saturday night, Sunday and national holidays) and €50. Appetizers €7-15, mains €18-50, desserts €5-8.