Fishing nets, buoys and an anchor… Sitting along the Nivelle River, welcome to the cabana-guinguette belonging to Ramuntxo Courdé – the wrinkle-free Basque owner who was raised on pure seafood. On the menu at Arrantzaleak, you’ll find the best the Ciboure seafood market has to offer: baby squid in persillade (€15), cod with chorizo (€19), whole grilled monkfish (€22), sole in a lemon butter sauce (€28)… And for us the day we went, served in half-portions, there were some unstoppable scallops cooked in their shells in butter and topped with strips of Ospital ham, cornbread croutons, chives and piment d’Espelette (€10); followed by an admirable John Dory grilled over embers, paired with Xérès-infused beurre blanc, piquillo peppers, diced boudin from Aizpurua (a delicatessen in Ciboure), capers, pickled red onion, new potatoes and piperade (€12); before an almost diet dessert of mamia (sheep’s milk caillé) with honey from Ascain (€5). Meat lovers can rest assured, there’s also Ospital pork (€18) and prime rib (€48 for two) served à la carte. To drink: a lightly sparkling Txakoli-de-Getaria (€25) or a gourmet Irouléguy from Bordaxuria (€44). Menus €38 (except Saturday night, Sunday and national holidays) and €50, kids €10, à la carte €30-60. // P.L.