Au Bon Endroit
The terroir-ists of Buttes-Chaumont! Known by restaurant precincts for their smuggling operations (Corsican cheeses, Basque pork, Auvergne honey…), Serena Battestini and Romain Lara have ended up taking refuge in a rigged out yet unfussy hideout (ageless tiling, ordinary furniture, ambulant blackboard menus). The other night, some neo-rustic dishes by British chef Ollie Clarke (ex-La Régalade) got dealt out: an earthy game terrine with an excellent kiwi chutney; an explosively flavorful celery rémoulade with piment d’Espelette and spider crab; cockles splashed with squid ink – too salty unfortunately; gourmet roasted duck breast with charred beets; a small flavor bomb of pheasant stew loaded with shiitakes; before a delicious rice pudding scorched with a flame-thrower. In short: This Bon Endroit is in the right place, right time! // A.A.
FEELING THIRSTY? Organic-centric wines from Corsica and mainland France: a Bianco Gentile from Antoine-Marie Arena (€7 a glass), a Patrimonio red from the Domaine Giacometti (€32 a bottle), a Gard Syrah from Valentin Valles (€35)…
PRICE: Set menus €17-21 (weekday lunch), €30 (Saturday lunch). Plates €10-20 (dinner). Brunch €30 (Sunday).