In a quiet village lulled to sleep by the bubbling of its 40 fountains, the talented Jérôme Campanelli awakens everyone to the tune of the changing seasons. The day we went for lunch, seated in a cool Scandi space that combines light hardwood floors, 1950s chairs and atmospheric light fixtures, his impeccable four-course menu paraded out of the kitchen: a striking veal and mussel tartare with a fennel compote, veiled with seawater and aroused with a saffron condiment; a lovely, line-caught, slow-cooked hake fillet with saffron-roasted peppers and a smoked eggplant purée; tender dry-aged steak served very rare, with pan-fried chanterelles and a princely jus de viande, served with bread cooked in a wood-fired oven from the nearby bakery, for wiping the plate clean; before some gourmet roasted figs placed atop a pistachio cream and paired with a Piedmont hazelnut cookie for dessert. // G.LeP.
FEELING THIRSTY? A southern wine list where you’re sure to find organic pleasures: an Aix red from the Château Revelette (€6 a glass), local whites from the Château des Tours (€45 a bottle) or from Henri Milan (€57)…
PRICE: Menus €37 (lunch) and €49 (dinner).
