For all those with a craving for the southwest while in Ch’ti land, Patricia and Paul Sirvent’s cave à manger is always a sure bet. Sitting under the glass ceiling surrounded by bottles of wine and the menus of Michelin-starred restaurants stripped of their stars (Veyrat, Haeberlin), the blackboard menu on the wall invites you to go surfing! The other day at lunch, the surf and turf came together in harmony: mi-cuit salmon rillettes from Maison Barthouil (seasoned with Roellinger curry), tender stuffed duck neck, outstanding salmon gravlax and really tender cured duck breast. Just as good for your mood and morale, there were Navarrais peppers wed with anchovies from Collioure, and a few cleverly subcontracted desserts: a silky almond gâteau basque from Maison Pariès, or a chocolate pavé cakefrom the neighboring Maison Benoit. // M.F.
FEELING THIRSTY? Organic and natural Occitan treasures: a Côteaux-du-Languedoc from Pierre Vaïsse (€6 a glass), Vin d’Autan, a sweet Gaillac from Plageoles (€10) or Baron de Bachen, a Tursan white (€17.90 a bottle).
PRICE: Platters and plates €8-19, desserts €6-7.