Le Fooding Guide’s 2012 crush
A Viking is taking the reins at Au Passage! The Swede David Kjellstenius, who worked up until now as sous-chef for the Englishman Edward Delling, has just taken over the head chef position. In this perfect space (Formica tables, suspension lamps…), the results are written out on the blackboard menu and beautifully presented on the plates: an authentic terrine, marvelous roasted half-pigeon, lamb shoulder to share (€45)…. Or maybe caramelized mackerel with yogurt and radishes prepared in the Nordic style, combining sweet, savory and sour flavors all at once, excellent giant razor clams (Terroirs d’Avenir) adorned with mushroom “pompoms”, leeks and lamb bacon, then, that day, a bergamot cream with a saffron cake and clementines for a very fresh dessert. In order to avoid dehydration, there’s an invariably excellent selection of natural wines (Riberach, Grappe, Bobinet…) including a dozen that are served by the glass (€5-6): a fruity Roussanne-Viognier from Barret, or Grolleau Poil de la Bête de Reau, a bit unkempt, but not in an off-putting way… // G.D.