Once you’ve taken a tour of the ramparts, it’s impossible to miss this former bike hangar up in the heights of Saint-Valéry. Brick walls, showy tableware, a vintage commode and a collection of vintage posters welcome in famished onlookers with well-made and locally sourced cuisine. The day we went for lunch: a baked egg with chorizo and melted cheddar (€7.80); a chilled melon soup spiced with ginger (€7.80); a medallion of beef with a handful of vegetables (€18.10); a market-fresh zucchini-tomato millefeuille with a Parmesan crumble (€15.90); before desserts kept under glass bells, served until the afternoon – intensely chocolately gluten-free fudge (€7.50), bitter almond macarons (€2 each), pistachio-raspberry financiers (€4.50). To wash it all down: dry cider from the Pays de Bray (€3.80 a glass), a blonde/amber ale from the Brasserie de la Somme (€4.95 for 330 ml) or a Syrah-Merlot from the Côtes-de-Thongue produced by the Domaine Deshenrys (€4.40 a glass). Kids €10, à la carte €29-36. // M.P.