Automne (Paris)

© Stéphane Léger

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In this bistro with disarmingly simple décor (white walls, brown benches, black industrial lamps, a bar with plenty of patina), Japanese chef Noboyuki Akishige (ex-Biondi) meticulously composes unpretentious seasonal cuisine for diners with high standards. The day we went for lunch the à la carte menu was a fine demonstration: delicious bonito tataki with eggplant caviar, semi-dried tomatoes and a lemony oil; incredibly tender pan-fried pork with an autumnal purée of beets, turnips and pistachios; before a delicious vanilla rice pudding with some refreshing slices of oranges and a lime sorbet. // O.D.

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s an upstanding list of natural wines, most of them single-varietals: a Burgundy Chardonnay from Pascale and Thierry Matrot (€10 a glass); an Alsatian Pinot noir from Lucas and André Rieffel (€8); a Languedoc Grenache, Rendez-Vous, from the Domaine Rousselin (€38 a bottle); Loire Ca Claque!, a Sauvignon from Alexis Hudon (€40), etc.

PRICE: Dish of the day €25, menus €40 (lunch) and €55-85 (dinner), à la carte €67-79.

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