Aux Bons Crus

In their retro brasserie with the Relais Routiers stamp of approval, decked out with fine-tuned décor (gingham tablecloths, blotchy mirrors, a suite of benches), Margaux and Félix – the Dumant twins who also own Les Marches in the 16h arrondissement – take hungry bellies on quite the road tripe. All roads lead to hearty dishes on their menu: Lyonnais sausage baked in a golden brioche bun; pâté en croûte made by Alexis Blanchard – the world runner-up when it comes to making this particular dish; old-fashioned eggs en meurette; a Bocuse-inspired andouillette from Bobosse in an anti-detox mustard cream sauce; veal head en ravigote backed up by homemade matchstick fries; and a sensational baba au rhum stuffed and sprinkled with sugary pink pralines. At lunch, there’s a satisfying set menu as well (an example: scrambled eggs with truffles, endive casserole, €16). And to quench your thirst, there are quite a few biodynamic wines to choose from, including an impeccable Vacqueyras from Serge Férigoule (€8 a glass) or the legendary Morgon from Jean Foillard (€45 a bottle). Set lunch menu €16, dinner à la carte €25-40. // A.A.