“Il y a plus d’après à Saint-Germain-des-Prés”? Cyril Lignac has delivered a knockout punch to Juliette Greco by dusting off this historic but mummified spot, which has once again become a hotspot for the germanopratin crowd: floral carpeting, floral bouquet wallpaper, a veined marble bar, molten glass light fixtures, beautiful lamps, dim lighting. The menu is split into styles and written out in English: “crispy & spicy, raw, veggie & vegan, from the sea, market table, sweet…” Like a concept store, there’s a heavy scent of liquid soap, which is for sale, along with bread, chocolate or beer, all of which has Lignac’s seal of approval. Meanwhile, the menu crafted by executive chef Aude Rambourd travels all around the world (Japan, Korea, India, Mexico, Italy, Thailand, Spain, England). For us, the day we went for lunch: four cheeky slices of yellow tail marinated in a yuzu sauce and topped with thinly sliced daikon radish (€22); then an explosive dish of cod with concentrated flavors and minty zucchini, intensified by a chorizo emulsion (€29); and to sweeten the deal, rhubarb and raspberries confit beneath a cloud of orgeat milk granita (€12). As an alternative to Sunday mass, come take communion at their incredible brunch, seated alongside the neighborhood’s upper crust crowd (€49). // D.C.
FEELING THIRSTY? There’s Part Davant 2017, a Jurançon sec from the Domaine Camin Larredya (€10 a glass); Les Galets 2017, a Crozes Hermitage red from the Domaine des Hauts Chassis (€10); Calligramme 2013, a Jasnières from the Domaine de Bellivière (€75); a calcareous 2017 Pouilly Fumé from the Domaine Michot (€46); and a 2015 red Terrasses du Larzac from the Domaine Montcalmès (€72), etc. A dozen shaken cocktails made by Marco Mohammadi (€13-16) are up for grabs as well.
PRICE: À la carte €37-75.