In Hebrew, balagan means a “joyful mess”! A jumble, turmoil, a dump… or, in this case, a hip, chic café, brought to fruition by the Experimental Group, designer Dorothé Meilichzon (chic ceramics, blue velvet, spotted carpeting) and, most importantly, star Israeli chef Assaf Granit (Machneyuda, The Palomar). His protégée, Dan Yosha, directs a group of friendly, hyperactive chefs who energize the crowds with their electric Jewish dishes. The night we went, straight from the kitchen-bar: some tasty chicken liver with onions and a soft-boiled egg (€14); a deconstructed kebab (€17); rounds of calamari with thyme, peppers and an eggplant cream (€14); a somewhat lazy fattoush salad (€13); octopus with sheep’s milk cheese, cream of coriander, broad beans and peas (€28); then, for dessert, a Jerusalem-inspired cheesecake (vanilla whipped cream, cardamom and a red berry coulis, €8). To drink, there’s a Greek red from the Argyros estate (€7 a glass), a Catalan blend from Ivo Pagès (€30 a bottle) or funky cocktails like the Persifleur with gin, elderflower, cucumber and lime (€15). Set menus €24-29 (lunch), à la carte €39-64. // A.A.