Balagan (Paris)

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Despite all the hype around Assaf Granit’s flamboyant restaurant, Shabour, which opened in 2019, the chef hasn’t abandoned his “joyful mess” (balagan in Hebrew) in the Tuileries neighborhood. At this chic spot decorated by Dorothé Meilichzon (blue velvet banquettes, white marble tables, Alexandre Girard mirrors), expect explosively flavorful plates coming from the kitchen counter, bellydancing across the room before being pounced upon by the well-dressed crowd. The night we went, after an addictive kubaneh brioche with labneh for dipping to get things started, there was a feast of high-energy mezze: (purposely) charred eggplant with black sesame tahini, chili and a tahini crumble; a deconstructed kebab that you reassemble yourself, practically licking the plate clean in the process; tender grilled octopus with pita, bone marrow, za’atar and sumac; before a comforting “Crashed Snickers,” an incredible mix of halva, tahini mousse, caramelized peanuts, dark chocolate tuile and salted butter caramel. // C.C.

FEELING THIRSTY? Recreational cocktails (eg.: Pondishery Mule with vodka, Angostura, cardamon, lime and ginger beer – €15) and Mediterranean wines: a Galilean red from Yarden (€15 a glass), etc.

PRICE: Set menus €25-30 (lunch from Monday to Friday), à la carte €46-64.

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