Bar de Biondi
At the wine bar of his Argentinian restaurant Biondi, Fernando di Tomaso is putting a Latin twist on East Parisian standards. In a space with rough stone walls, stripped-bare beams and exposed copper pipes, the night we went we dug into some exquisite tapas: striking meagre ceviche with aguachile and plantain leaves (€10); gourmet guacamole with wasabi, mint and dill (€8); perfect Iberian ham croquettes (€8); beef heart anticucho with a celery cream (€9)… And don’t forget about the best La Pampa has to offer, which gets thrown on the grill (sirloin and rib-eye steaks… €30-38), served with good, fat, hand-cut fries and a spicy Sarawak peppercorn sauce. And to end the meal on a sweet note? A flavorful pear marinated in Malbec wine and served with a honey mousse (€8). Or for something heavier, opt for the dulce de leche dessert (€10). As for the bebidas, there are strong cocktails (including a volcanic Spicy Bramble made with vodka, aji amarillo and blackberries, €10) and living wines that kick traditional vintages to the curb: a natural Cabernet-Sauvignon from the Cecchin familia (€8 a glass), or a taut Melon de Bourgogne, La Soeur Cadette (€32 a bottle), etc. // G.L.P.