Barbakoa? It means barbecue, in Basque! But it’s also the latest spot from Jules Dupouy-Duhesme (ex-Sissinou and Sin), tucked away in an equestrian clubhouse in Biarritz. Once night falls at this rustic, cool and vintage spot, the glowing embers of the barbecue tickle Galician prime rib dry-aged for 62 days (€45 a kilo), monkfish marinated in satay (€47 a kilo), or meagre grilled with thyme and olive oil (€50 a kilo). They’re all served with thick-cut fries (€4), chanterelle mushrooms from the Mouricsot woods (€13) and slow-cooked Cévennes onions (€8). There are no grilled meats at lunch, but there are plenty of other good things: tasty Chalosse rabbit rillettes (€9); excellent herb-crusted red mullet fillets, served with broccoli and a carrot and ginger purée (€19); before a heavenly dessert of lemony shortbread with coconut whipped cream and dulce de leche (€7). To wash it all down, there’s wines for all budgets, from a glass of rueda blanc, Four Lines for €4, to a bottle of Vega Sicilia-Valbuena (€270). For a chilled alternative, there’s blonde Kippett, a craft Basque beer (€4 for 330 ml). Set lunch menus €15-19, à la carte €27-39, kid’s menu €9. // P.L.